Many of a dishwasher’s working parts, including its power cord connection and water supply line installation, are hidden by an access panel on its front bottom. Simply lay it backwards (using cardboard or towel to prevent scratches on flooring) and lift out the access panel to access its inner workings.
Before beginning, switch off both your electrical circuit breaker and water valve under your sink.
A dishwasher is an efficient appliance that helps save both labor and energy consumption, with plumbing connections that are usually straightforward. Before beginning to set up your new dishwasher, turn off power at the circuit breaker panel, shut off water supply to sink cabinet using closest shutoff valve (usually hot-water valve under sink), remove cabinet doors from sink base to make disconnecting drain lines simpler, and switch on circuit breaker panel power back on to turn it back off if required.
Removing the lower access panels from the sink base cabinet and laying the dishwasher atop them allows for easy reach of its underbelly to connect power cord connections and water inlet solenoid valve connections. Locate and open up terminal box; if hardwiring your dishwasher feed power cord into it and connect its black wire to green grounding wire in terminal box along with white and black dishwasher leads with twist-on wire connectors before replacing cover of terminal box.
Make sure your dishwasher drain is clear of obstructions with a toothpick or wire and check spray holes for possible obstructions, also checking any spray holes for possible blockage if applicable. If this doesn’t solve the issue pour hot water down the drain pump to flush away debris.
Idealy, you should be able to run the power cord and drain hose from beneath your sink to your new dishwasher without needing to crouch or lie on the floor while making these connections. To reduce this discomfort further, set your new dishwasher flat before taking steps such as opening its front access panel.
To use a high loop for your dishwasher, run 1/2-inch flexible tubing from the bottom front of the cabinet up to the hot-water valve underneath your sink. A high loop will help prevent wastewater from flowing backwards into your garbage disposal or sink.
Before proceeding with anything else, turn off your dishwasher by switching off its circuit breaker and shutting off its water supply valve, typically a 3/8-in diameter copper tube attached by compression to a dual-outlet shutoff valve under your sink. Also have an appropriate container nearby to collect any surplus liquid that might drain from dislodging existing pipe segments when they’re unconnected from their respective pipes.
Local codes may require you to install an air gap before connecting your dishwasher to either your sink or garbage disposal. In such an instance, purchase and mount an air gap in a suitable unused hole under your sink, running one flexible hose from your dishwasher directly to a tee connected to drain trap or disposer and shaping its arch higher than drain inlet of your dishwasher.
Most of the electrical and plumbing connections for a dishwasher can be found behind an access panel on the front bottom of its unit. Carefully tipping it back makes this panel more accessible; remove kickplate and screw off thin rectangular access panel to uncover junction box that houses power cord fittings, water inlet solenoid valve and drain fitting.
DIY dishwasher installation can be accomplished, though only if you possess the appropriate plumbing and electricity skills. Before beginning, turn off both power at your circuit breaker and the water supply line leading into your sink, as well as laying the dishwasher on its back so as to provide easy access for electrical and plumbing connections at its base.
You will need to replace your old copper water line with a flexible stainless steel line specifically designed for dishwashers, available at hardware stores and home centers. Be careful not to bend or kink the new pipe as this could lead to leakage issues.
Connect the drain hose to your dishwasher using the provided clamps, and test its functionality by pressing on its tailpiece; it should arch upward rather than down, to prevent backwash from the kitchen sink. Complete all electrical connections within the cabinet using wire nuts (and strippers if necessary); connect white to white wires, while black to black wires.